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Dunedin Railway Station

Dunedin Railway Station (1906)

Rail nears its zenith

‘Gingerbread George’ Troup’s magnificent Flemish Baroque-inspired railway station does not (yet?) sit near ‘the last buffers before the Southern Ocean’, as historian Felipe Fernández-Armesto suggests in his book, Millennium. But he is on sounder ground when he writes that one of the world’s great railway stations still makes a striking contribution to a city skyline ‘lined with spires and trimmed with towers, as heavy with human embellishments as an alderman’s robes’. Indeed, it is difficult to argue with his description of the city as ‘a marvellous mirror, reflecting Victorian and Edwardian Britain from as far away as it is possible to get, through almost the whole length and density of the core and carapace of the earth’.

The historian is not alone in singing Troup’s great pile’s praises. In 2006 the travel guide DK Eyewitness included the station in its list of the 200 wonders of the world. In 2013 Condé Nast Traveller magazine placed it on its list of the world’s top 16 railway stations.

Dunedin’s railway station was New Zealand’s busiest when it opened. Exuberant in its Marseilles tiles, Central Otago basalt, Ōamaru stone and Peterhead granite, it oozes confidence in a railway system that was nearing its zenith. By using railway labour, transport and materials, Troup kept the cost to £800,000 (equivalent to $126 million in 2013); nevertheless, some Dunedinites thought the lavatories too luxurious!

The station suffered considerably from the 1970s as suburban and branch-line services died. In 1994, 90 years after Minister of Railways Sir Joseph Ward laid the foundation stone under a banner proclaiming, ‘Advance New Zealand Railways’, the city council took possession of the station from the faltering, recently privatised remnant of the railways. Step inside and admire the magnificent tiled booking office. Trains are rare these days, but the one regular passenger train using it is an award-winner, the Taieri Gorge tourist train. The building houses a restaurant, an art gallery and the New Zealand Sports Hall of Fame, and each year turns head as fashionistas tart up its platform to stage the iD Dunedin Fashion Shows.

Further information

This site is item number 75 on the History of New Zealand in 100 Places list.

Websites

Book

J.D. Mahoney, Down at the station, Dunmore Press, Palmerston North, 1987

Credit:

Text, Gavin McLean, 2013

Main image: macronix (Flickr)

Other colour images: Harald Selke (Flickr), Daniel Pietzsch (Flickr), DunedinNZ (Flickr), Ingjye Huang (Flickr) and John Ward (Flickr)

Black and white images:

Alexander Turnbull Library
References: APG-2028-1/2-G (photographed by Albert Percy Godber), 1/2-046486-G (photographed by Sydney Charles Smith) and APG-0942-1/2-G (photographed by Albert Percy Godber)
Permission of the Alexander Turnbull Library, National Library of New Zealand, Te Puna Matauranga o Aotearoa, must be obtained before any reuse of their images.

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1906

Pipitea Marae

Pipitea Marae, Wellington (1980)

Urban Māori return

The Māori population more than doubled between 1961 and 1991, rising from 150,000 to 400,000. More significantly, it also urbanised. Pulled by job opportunities and government policies, Māori flooded into the cities and towns, accelerating a wartime phenomenon. Only 17% of Māori lived in urban areas in 1936; that figure was 26% by 1945, 62% by 1966 and 83% by 1986.

This brought the urban Pākehā population face to face with Māori for the first time in 100 years. Wellington had been the first township to ‘swamp’ Māori in the 1840s, even taking their minimal town reserves from them in exchange for rural ones. In colonial days ‘gradually the Māori disappeared from the streets of Wellington’. By the 1930s just a few hundred lived in the greater urban area and newcomers spoke feelingly about wandering the streets looking for the sight of another Māori face.

Twenty years after the ‘silent migration’ began, the first urban marae appeared in Auckland: Te Puea (1965), a traditional kin-based marae, but open to all; and the Catholic-run Te Ūnga Waka (1966). Another alternative emerged, the secular, multi-tribal marae, two examples being Arai Te Uru Marae in Kaikorai Valley, Dunedin (1979-80) and Pipitea Marae, opened on 31 May 1980 for what Ranginui Walker calls the ‘quasi-tribe’ Ngāti Poneke. Ngāti Poneke (a transliteration of Port Nicholson, the old name for Wellington) began as a city youth club in the 1930s and was encouraged by Sir Āpirana Ngata and Lady Pōmare.

The complex preserves the traditional relationship between the heavy concrete and steel building and open spaces, and there are wooden palisades, but a commercial car park beneath the building also brings in revenue. As relentlessly modern as its neighbours, the commercial towers of Thorndon Quay, the newly renovated Pipitea Marae continues to play its role in transplanting Māori culture into the urban milieu.

Further information

This site is item number 100 on the History of New Zealand in 100 Places list.

Websites

Book

Patricia Grace, Irihapeti Ramsden and Jonathan Dennis (eds), The silent migration, Huia, Wellington, 2001

Credit:

Text: Gavin McLean, 2013

Main image: Andy Palmer, 2012

Other contemporary images: Andy Palmer (2012) and Gavin McLean (2001)

Historic image:

Alexander Turnbull Library
Reference: EP/1980/1751/19a-F
Permission of the Alexander Turnbull Library, National Library of New Zealand, Te Puna Matauranga o Aotearoa, must be obtained before any reuse of their images.

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1980

Christchurch International Airport

Christchurch International Airport (1955-60)

New Zealand enters the jet age

It took a long time for commercial aviation to conquer New Zealand’s isolation. The first long-distance seaplanes made much-publicised visits in the late 1930s and until the 1950s our international airports were really seaports, with Solent flying boats roaring in and out of the major ports’ more sheltered stretches. That changed with the big long-haul landplanes, the propeller-driven Constellation and then the jets, from 1963 the de Havilland Comet and from 1965 the Boeing 707, Douglas DC8 and Vickers VC10.

These planes forced the pace of airport development. Auckland’s Mangere (1965) was the big one, but Christchurch’s Harewood, initially developed in the late 1930s, took off first. It became an international airport in 1950, three years before it hosted the epic Coronation Year Great London to Christchurch Air Race. The Christchurch International Airport now handles about 121,000 aircraft movements carrying 5½ million passengers each year. Hardly anyone travels by sea for business any more, though pleasure-seeking by cruise ships is taking off.

Until quite recently you could see, almost buried by those later extensions, Paul Pascoe’s modernist control tower, with its long, curved façade and folded and cantilevered canopy. Its clean lines harked back to the dawn of the mass-travel era, when British long-range jets competed with American and when the privileged few dressed up for their flights. It has gone the way of the Constellation and the Comet. Between 2009 and 2013 the airport bowled the ‘old’ domestic terminal to replace it with something more in keeping with the recently enlarged international terminal. Airports are like that, showpieces for regional economies desperate to grab tourist dollars and appear more business-friendly than the city down the road.

Further information

This site is item number 97 on the History of New Zealand in 100 Places list.

Websites

Credit:

Text: Gavin McLean, 2013

Main image: Cafe Cecil (Flickr)

Other images: Albert Hsu (Wikimedia), Chris Wall (Flickr), Christchurch City Libraries (Flickr) and Christchurch City Libraries (Flickr)

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1955-60

First State House

First State House (1937)

Little boxes for suburban nuclear families

We have all seen the photograph – Prime Minister Michael Joseph Savage, under-secretary for Housing John A. Lee and other Cabinet ministers helping to carry the furniture of Wellington bus conductor David McGregor and his wife Mary through the crowd into the first of the Labour government’s new state houses. The 18 September 1937 ceremony was a propaganda coup that Labour’s politicians would repeat elsewhere whenever there was a ‘first’ state house available.

This was not the first state housing programme. The Liberals had built a few workers’ dwellings and the Reform government still awaits full credit for its substantial efforts to create a property-owning democracy. Still, the Labour government’s programme was massive. The Housing Construction Branch of the State Advances Corporation designed its houses to be good enough to cross class barriers. Continued by Labour and National successors, the state housing system would give New Zealand its distinctive tracts of tile-hatted suburban boxes; by 1987 over 91,000 had been built. We tend to dismiss them, but read John A. Lee’s polemics to see just what an advance they were over the sort of privately rented housing his mother endured in working-class Dunedin. No wonder private landlords resented them and writer Kevin Ireland’s mother cursed her husband for moving out of one into a ramshackle old bungalow.

Architects still hate them. A book on the modern movement in Wellington virtually ignored them in favour of the numerically insignificant blocks of flats. In Built in New Zealand William Toomath puzzles over why we rejected the Californian bungalow, with its low pitch and spacious verandahs, for the high-pitched English cottage, with its small windows, small rooms off a central hallway and only the most grudging entrance porch. Perhaps it was the ultimate expression of historian James Belich’s recolonisation theory, but more probably the modern kitchens, fitted wardrobes and sturdy construction of the Housing Constructions Branch’s homes impressed people fleeing draughty, rotting old dives. Whatever the reason, how long will it be before state houses acquire the retro chic status we have given villas and bungalows? Perhaps not long. In 2012 one changed hands in Ōrākei for $1,450,000 as Auckland’s housing market surged upwards.

Further information

This site is item number 95 on the History of New Zealand in 100 Places list.

Websites

Book

Ben Schrader, We call it home: a history of state housing in New Zealand, Reed Books, Auckland, 2005

Credit:

Text: Gavin McLean, 2013

Colour images: Andy Palmer, 2012

Historic images:

Alexander Turnbull Library
References: PAColl-5800-49, APG-0448-1/2-G (photographed by Albert Percy Godber) and 1/4-048806-G
Permission of the Alexander Turnbull Library, National Library of New Zealand, Te Puna Matauranga o Aotearoa, must be obtained before any reuse of their images.

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1937

The ‘Bridge to Nowhere’

The ‘Bridge to Nowhere’ (1936)

Bridge to the ‘valley of abandoned dreams’

Although land and resources were fast running out, frontier New Zealand was still being developed between the wars. We have seen an example of latter-day private enterprise pioneering at Port Craig. Public enterprise also fell on its face about the same time with its soldier resettlement programmes. After the First World War, the government had promised a land fit for heroes, but the Reform government’s generosity sometimes fell well short of its platitudinous patriotism. Writer Rewi Alley later wrote feelingly about his struggle in rural Taranaki, and the 40 families who took up land in the isolated Mangapūrua Valley inland from Whanganui were let down even more cruelly.

They began optimistically enough. Their 450-ha farms had to be hacked out of the steep, virgin bush in one of the last large-scale pioneering efforts in New Zealand history. They set up a school in an abandoned house in 1926, but the presence of that house merely underlined the problem. New Zealand’s brief postwar recovery collapsed sharply in 1921 and the rest of the decade was bumpy. Prices fell, yields dropped and the high rainfall washed out bridges and sent unstable rock crashing down onto the road. At first the settlers relied on river steamers but after the road was metalled it became their outlet to the railhead at Raetihi. In vain they struggled to patch the road while appealing for a concrete bridge to replace their timber suspension one. With almost fictional irony, by the time that contractors Sanford and Brown handed the expensive, permanent bridge over in June 1936 most of the soldier families had walked off their land. Just three families were holding out in 1942, when heavy rain wrecked the road. The Public Works Department refused to restore it and in May 1942 Cabinet ordered the remaining settlers out, compensating them with £250 per family.

They trudged out wearily and sadly, leaving the bush to reassert itself. Hunters and trampers had ‘the valley of abandoned dreams’ to themselves until 1986, when the government added the valley to the new Whanganui National Park. By then weeds were growing thick on the decking of the bridge, which had acquired iconic status with the ever-increasing number of park users. In 1995 the ‘bridge to nowhere’, as it had become known, was repaired to serve a new public.

The bridge is now busier than ever, catering for sometimes well-heeled tourists. It has become a symbol of futility, but we should remember that most of the 5000 servicemen and their families who took up farms offered by the government did not walk off the land. Some did very nicely. The ones who threw in the towel were the people on isolated and/or infertile land, and some of them might have stuck it out had they not also been clobbered by the Great Depression.

Further information

This site is item number 94 on the History of New Zealand in 100 Places list.

Websites

Book

Arthur P. Bates, The bridge to nowhere, Wanganui Newspapers, Wanganui, 1987

Credit:

Text: Gavin McLean, 2013

Main image: Evan Goldenberg (Flickr)

Other images: Markus Koljonen (Flickr) and Robert Thomson (Flickr)

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1936

Shortland Street Studios

Shortland Street Studios (1934)

Icon of the radio years

Does that tall radio mast and the spiky electric-Gothic brickwork remind you of something from a prewar movie trailer? The former 1YA studios in downtown Auckland’s Shortland Street symbolise the high point of our radio or wireless years, as they would have been called then. In 1924 we had just 2800 licensed radio receivers; there were 50,000 by 1930 and 300,000 by 1939.

Radio Service Ltd got the first of the new station licences, 1YA, in May 1923. From 1925 it was the flagship of the Radio Broadcasting Company, the private venture that operated the four YA stations under contract to the government. Behind Shortland Street’s solid brick walls, which shielded it from traffic noise, four storeys of studios catered for broadcasters’ every need. The largest, 20 x 12 x 7.6 m, occupied two floors of the building and could handle concerts. A smaller studio contained an ‘echo’ room used for generating special sound effects. Within a year of its commissioning, the studios and the rest of the YA network were nationalised by the new Labour government.

Video, as they say, killed the radio star. Later, television moved in and took over more of the building. In 1966 it commissioned the famous Studio One here, New Zealand’s biggest TV studio until Avalon opened in the Hutt Valley a decade later. Pop shows such as C’mon were made in Studio One until the state broadcasters moved into a new purpose-built television centre in 1989. The old Shortland Street building is not quite done with the glamour life. Now owned by the University of Auckland, it houses the School of Creative and Performing Arts’ new Kenneth Myers Centre and boasts very modern studios.

Further information

This site is item number 93 on the History of New Zealand in 100 Places list.

Websites

Book

Patrick Day, The radio years, Auckland University Press, Auckland, 1994

Credit:

Text: Gavin McLean, 2013

Main image: Klim Andreev (Flickr)

Other images: Gavin McLean, 2001; Klim Andreev (Flickr)

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1934

National Tobacco Company Building

National Tobacco Company Building (1933)

Napier’s remarkable recovery

Not everyone suffered during the Great Depression. Gerhard Husheer’s National Tobacco Company, founded in 1922, made profits of £35,000 a year during the ’30s, coining it while killing them, so it had the money to rebuild in style after the Hawke’s Bay earthquake. This magnitude 7.8 quake, New Zealand’s most calamitous natural disaster of the 20^th century, struck on 3 February 1931 with the force of 100 million tonnes of TNT. It killed 256 or 258 people – sources disagree – and seriously injured more than 400. Much of what it failed to flatten burned down in the fires that broke out.

Husheer turned to Louis Hay, one of the architects who transformed the face of central Napier with the economical, quickly built and new art deco style. Not that there was anything cheap about this building. The tobacco tycoon sent Hay’s first set of plans back with a demand for something fancier. And here it is, an oddly successful blend with art nouveau tendrils tipped with roses adorning an art deco sunburst. Never mind: the arch in the square is pure Louis Sullivan art deco.

Art deco is now widely appreciated and the fag factory is the poster boy for the ‘Newest City on the Earth’, or as the Art Deco Trust now proclaims, ‘The Art Deco Capital of the World’. It was not always so. Until a visiting International Council on Monuments and Sites (ICOMOS) delegation sparked interest in the city’s streetscapes, Napier’s politicians and businesses had shown little interest in preservation. Long known as the Rothmans Building, it has recently been repainted in more authentic colours and renamed the National Tobacco Company Building. It is open to the public on weekdays. Enjoy the wooden doors, carved by Ruth Nelson of Havelock North, and the elaborate dome.

Further information

This site is item number 89 on the History of New Zealand in 100 Places list.

On the ground

Before going out to Port Ahuriri, drop into the offices of the Art Deco Trust at 7 Tennyson Street in Napier for information about the art deco and art nouveau heritage of Napier and Hastings.

Websites

Books

Matthew Wright, Quake: Hawke’s Bay 1931, 2^nd edition, Reed Books, Auckland, 2006
The Art Deco Trust has a range of small books on aspects of Napier’s history and heritage. See here.

Credit:

Text: Gavin McLean, 2013

Main image: Alan Liefting (Wikimedia)

Other contemporary images: Geof Wilson (Flickr), Adam Campbell (Flickr) and Russell James Smith (Flickr)

Historic image:

Alexander Turnbull Library
Reference: 1/2-100006-G
Permission of the Alexander Turnbull Library, National Library of New Zealand, Te Puna Matauranga o Aotearoa, must be obtained before any reuse of their images.

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1933

Frank Sargeson’s Bach

Frank Sargeson’s Bach, Takapuna (1931)

New Zealand fiction finds its voice

No Historic Places Trust registration form could improve on writer Kevin Ireland’s assessment of this place. ‘That tiny fibrolite dwelling, set in the subsistence garden that Frank cultivated like a small farm,’ he wrote in his memoir Under the bridge and over the moon, ‘became a literary kingdom entirely without guards or frontiers and where the only cards of identity were books’. As the novelist David Ballantyne put it: ‘Here he wrote all his best-known short stories and novels, grew vegetables and entertained friends and fellow writers. Here a truly New Zealand literature was born.’

In 1931 Norris Davey (Frank Sargeson) moved into the family bach (a Kiwi word for a small no-frills beach or holiday house) in Esmonde Road, Takapuna, then a quiet seaside resort on Auckland’s isolated North Shore. Seclusion suited the 28-year-old Sargeson, who was still trying to live down an earlier arrest for having sex with another man, then illegal in New Zealand. Dilapidated and cockroach-infested 14 Esmonde Road, ‘a small one-roomed hut in a quiet street ending in a land of mangrove mud-flats that belonged to the inner harbour’, offered sanctuary and somewhere to write. Here Sargeson wrote most of his work and also held court to the small literary community. Here he grew his vegetables, entertained, cooked fine meals, argued and loved and took in strays, most memorably the novelist Janet Frame, whose sojourn in the garden shed (now demolished) has been featured in books and film.

Sargeson died on 1 March 1982 and his ashes were sprinkled under a loquat tree in the garden. Traffic from the harbour bridge now thunders along Esmonde Road, past the property, which a trust administers as a literary museum. Contact the Takapuna Public Library to make an appointment to see the place. Sargeson’s reputation may have faded a little in literary circles, but behind its stark, no-frills grey fibrolite exterior there awaits an enticing, water-stained brown little world full of books, old armchairs, hats, coats and all the relics of a life of yarns and letters.

View Perfectly Frank - the life of a New Zealand writer (NZ On Screen)

Further information

This site is item number 88 on the History of New Zealand in 100 Places list.

Websites

Books

Michael King, Frank Sargeson: a life, Penguin, Auckland, 1995
Graeme Lay and Stephen Stratford (eds), An affair of the heart: a celebration of Frank Sargeson’s centenary, Cape Catley, Auckland, 2003

Credit:

Text: Gavin McLean, 2013

Contemporary images: Gavin McLean, 2001

Historic image:

Alexander Turnbull Library
Reference: 1/2-003138-F
Permission of the Alexander Turnbull Library, National Library of New Zealand, Te Puna Matauranga o Aotearoa, must be obtained before any reuse of their images.

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1931

Makatote Viaduct

Makatote Viaduct (1908)

The main trunk unites the North Island

The South Island main trunk line linked Christchurch and Dunedin by 1878 and was extended to Invercargill the next year, but another three decades would pass before engineers and politicians could overcome the opposition of King Country Māori and the forbidding central North Island terrain to complete the northern equivalent. Until then anyone wanting to travel from Auckland to Wellington either took a steamer down the east coast or sailed from Onehunga to catch the Wellington train at New Plymouth.

Christchurch firm J. & A. Anderson won the Makatote construction tender in 1905. The site was forbidding, 792 m above sea level amid thickly forested hills. Storms, floods and shortages of cement and skilled labour made things worse. Anderson set up a fully equipped workshop and brought in 1238 tonnes of cement and 1016 tonnes of steel by wagon from the railhead. Using a cableway stretched across the gorge between timber gantries, they had the viaduct ready by July 1908. Soon trains began rolling uninterrupted between Auckland and Wellington, transforming travel in the North Island and turning the government railway into a modern main-line system. Passenger numbers soared from 3.5 million in 1895 to 13.3 million in 1913 and freight carried rose from 2 million tonnes in 1895 to almost 3.9 million tonnes in 1913.

The Makatote Viaduct is not our longest railway viaduct, but still offers some impressive statistics: it is 2262 m long and 79 m high. There are six concrete and five steel piers. Twenty-three major viaducts and 26 bridges made the North Island main trunk an impressive project by any standards. When the American Society of Civil Engineers awarded the line its 27th International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark Award in 1997, it joined the Statue of Liberty, the Eiffel Tower and the Panama Canal on a very select list. Just south of the viaduct, the Last Spike Monument marks the spot where Sir Joseph Ward drove the final spike into the line on 6 November 1908.

Further information

This site is item number 78 on the History of New Zealand in 100 Places list.

On the ground

Motorists on State Highway 4 between Pokaka and Erua can view the viaduct from a rest stop beneath the southern piers, or from the Makatote Scenic Reserve at the northern end of the viaduct.

Websites

Books

Neill Atkinson, Trainland: how railways made New Zealand, Random House, Auckland, 2007
Geoffrey Thornton, Bridging the gap: early bridges in New Zealand 1830-1939, Reed Books, Auckland, 2001

Credit:

Text: Gavin McLean, 2013

Main image: possumgirl2 (Flickr)

Other images: David Maciulaitis (Flickr) and Materialscientist (Wikimedia)

Historic images:

Alexander Turnbull Library
References: APG-0451-1/2-G (photographed by Albert Percy Godber) and WA-11439-F (photographed by Whites Aviation)
Permission of the Alexander Turnbull Library, National Library of New Zealand, Te Puna Matauranga o Aotearoa, must be obtained before any reuse of their images.

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Date established:

1908

Northern Steamship Company Building

Northern Steamship Company Building, Auckland (1899)

The shipping line for ‘the roadless North’

Two things gave Auckland’s port special character: scows and the Northern Steamship Company. Dunedin’s mighty Union Steam Ship Company may have monopolised the coast, but this northern minnow managed to keep its independence. With a few notable exceptions such as the paddle steamer Wakatere and the later Ngapuhi, its ships were small and elderly, but they called anywhere, taking passengers and cargo to and from the ‘roadless North’. In 1898 Northern’s dynamic managing director Charles Ranson hired Arthur Wilson to complete the design of this prestigious office, which opened in May 1899. The building grew with the company, gaining a third storey and its distinctive triangular pediment about 1920.

Northern made an ambitious entry into the long-distance coastal trade during the 1950s, but ran out of steam 20 years later and sold its fleet in 1974-75.

Today displays at the maritime museum honour the old company’s memory. Its brick neo-classical building still looks across the Quay Street traffic to the old Northern Company Wharf (now Marsden Wharf), where the company’s coasters with their distinctive white funnels once rode the tides.

Related place

This part of Quay Street was the company’s patch. In the early 1900s the Northern and Union companies pooled their Auckland resources to form the United Repairing Co. Ltd. Wade & Goldsbro’ are believed to have designed the near new building at 116-118 Quay Street (until recently the Union Fish Co. Seafood Restaurant) that United took over in 1912. Though the pediment details have been rather rudely scalped from the facade, this solid brick building is another link to Auckland’s maritime past.

Further information

This site is item number 72 on the History of New Zealand in 100 Places list.

Websites

Book

Cliff Furniss, Servants of the north, A.H. & A.W. Reed, Wellington, 1977

Credit:

Text: Gavin McLean. 2013

Colour images: Gavin McLean

Historic images:

Alexander Turnbull Library
References: Auckland Star (01-12-1898) and WA-03893-G (photographed by Whites Aviation)
Permission of the Alexander Turnbull Library, National Library of New Zealand, Te Puna Matauranga o Aotearoa, must be obtained before any reuse of their images.

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Date established:

1899