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Dunedin Railway Station

Dunedin Railway Station (1906)

Rail nears its zenith

‘Gingerbread George’ Troup’s magnificent Flemish Baroque-inspired railway station does not (yet?) sit near ‘the last buffers before the Southern Ocean’, as historian Felipe Fernández-Armesto suggests in his book, Millennium. But he is on sounder ground when he writes that one of the world’s great railway stations still makes a striking contribution to a city skyline ‘lined with spires and trimmed with towers, as heavy with human embellishments as an alderman’s robes’. Indeed, it is difficult to argue with his description of the city as ‘a marvellous mirror, reflecting Victorian and Edwardian Britain from as far away as it is possible to get, through almost the whole length and density of the core and carapace of the earth’.

The historian is not alone in singing Troup’s great pile’s praises. In 2006 the travel guide DK Eyewitness included the station in its list of the 200 wonders of the world. In 2013 Condé Nast Traveller magazine placed it on its list of the world’s top 16 railway stations.

Dunedin’s railway station was New Zealand’s busiest when it opened. Exuberant in its Marseilles tiles, Central Otago basalt, Ōamaru stone and Peterhead granite, it oozes confidence in a railway system that was nearing its zenith. By using railway labour, transport and materials, Troup kept the cost to £800,000 (equivalent to $126 million in 2013); nevertheless, some Dunedinites thought the lavatories too luxurious!

The station suffered considerably from the 1970s as suburban and branch-line services died. In 1994, 90 years after Minister of Railways Sir Joseph Ward laid the foundation stone under a banner proclaiming, ‘Advance New Zealand Railways’, the city council took possession of the station from the faltering, recently privatised remnant of the railways. Step inside and admire the magnificent tiled booking office. Trains are rare these days, but the one regular passenger train using it is an award-winner, the Taieri Gorge tourist train. The building houses a restaurant, an art gallery and the New Zealand Sports Hall of Fame, and each year turns head as fashionistas tart up its platform to stage the iD Dunedin Fashion Shows.

Further information

This site is item number 75 on the History of New Zealand in 100 Places list.

Websites

Book

J.D. Mahoney, Down at the station, Dunmore Press, Palmerston North, 1987

Credit:

Text, Gavin McLean, 2013

Main image: macronix (Flickr)

Other colour images: Harald Selke (Flickr), Daniel Pietzsch (Flickr), DunedinNZ (Flickr), Ingjye Huang (Flickr) and John Ward (Flickr)

Black and white images:

Alexander Turnbull Library
References: APG-2028-1/2-G (photographed by Albert Percy Godber), 1/2-046486-G (photographed by Sydney Charles Smith) and APG-0942-1/2-G (photographed by Albert Percy Godber)
Permission of the Alexander Turnbull Library, National Library of New Zealand, Te Puna Matauranga o Aotearoa, must be obtained before any reuse of their images.

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dunedin

railway stations

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Date established:

1906

National Tobacco Company Building

National Tobacco Company Building (1933)

Napier’s remarkable recovery

Not everyone suffered during the Great Depression. Gerhard Husheer’s National Tobacco Company, founded in 1922, made profits of £35,000 a year during the ’30s, coining it while killing them, so it had the money to rebuild in style after the Hawke’s Bay earthquake. This magnitude 7.8 quake, New Zealand’s most calamitous natural disaster of the 20^th century, struck on 3 February 1931 with the force of 100 million tonnes of TNT. It killed 256 or 258 people – sources disagree – and seriously injured more than 400. Much of what it failed to flatten burned down in the fires that broke out.

Husheer turned to Louis Hay, one of the architects who transformed the face of central Napier with the economical, quickly built and new art deco style. Not that there was anything cheap about this building. The tobacco tycoon sent Hay’s first set of plans back with a demand for something fancier. And here it is, an oddly successful blend with art nouveau tendrils tipped with roses adorning an art deco sunburst. Never mind: the arch in the square is pure Louis Sullivan art deco.

Art deco is now widely appreciated and the fag factory is the poster boy for the ‘Newest City on the Earth’, or as the Art Deco Trust now proclaims, ‘The Art Deco Capital of the World’. It was not always so. Until a visiting International Council on Monuments and Sites (ICOMOS) delegation sparked interest in the city’s streetscapes, Napier’s politicians and businesses had shown little interest in preservation. Long known as the Rothmans Building, it has recently been repainted in more authentic colours and renamed the National Tobacco Company Building. It is open to the public on weekdays. Enjoy the wooden doors, carved by Ruth Nelson of Havelock North, and the elaborate dome.

Further information

This site is item number 89 on the History of New Zealand in 100 Places list.

On the ground

Before going out to Port Ahuriri, drop into the offices of the Art Deco Trust at 7 Tennyson Street in Napier for information about the art deco and art nouveau heritage of Napier and Hastings.

Websites

Books

Matthew Wright, Quake: Hawke’s Bay 1931, 2^nd edition, Reed Books, Auckland, 2006
The Art Deco Trust has a range of small books on aspects of Napier’s history and heritage. See here.

Credit:

Text: Gavin McLean, 2013

Main image: Alan Liefting (Wikimedia)

Other contemporary images: Geof Wilson (Flickr), Adam Campbell (Flickr) and Russell James Smith (Flickr)

Historic image:

Alexander Turnbull Library
Reference: 1/2-100006-G
Permission of the Alexander Turnbull Library, National Library of New Zealand, Te Puna Matauranga o Aotearoa, must be obtained before any reuse of their images.

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Date established:

1933

Stone Store

Stone Store (1835)

CMS white elephant

The Stone Store was New Zealand’s first architectural white elephant. Modelled, like the adjacent mission house, on Samuel Marsden’s establishment at Parramatta, in Sydney, the store testifies to the determination of Church Missionary Society (CMS) catechist, storekeeper and blacksmith James Kemp and his wife Charlotte not to leave their comfortable nest at Kerikeri to further the work of the Society. They had arrived in 1819 and would linger here long after there was anyone to preach to, quietly laying up treasure on earth.

The building’s impossible location, up a shallow creek and far from the shifting frontier of missionary endeavour, arose from infighting between the CMS’s Kerikeri and Paihia factions. ‘You may ask why, then, did we go to so great an expense in the erection of a building which is now condemned by the collected wisdom in New Zealand’, CMS leader Henry Williams wrote to his superior in 1835. He knew very well why. Marsden feared that whalers and traders would have more pulling power than preachers and backed Kemp precisely because this warehouse was far from temptation. Unfortunately it was also unhandily far from the seagoing ships needed to transport goods to and from its expensive door.

Make no mistake, it was expensive. Lavishly built from local basalt, supplemented by Sydney sandstone in the arches, jambs and corners, the store must have looked jarringly out of place in a land where raupō whare were the norm and where even missionaries made do with timber. But there was more. At a late stage in construction someone stuck a structurally unsound belfry/clock tower on Kemp’s folly. It probably lasted less than a decade but it explained why early visitors frequently shook their heads at it towering over the chapel! The heavy window bars, built by Kemp himself, showed how much he feared his Māori overlords.

Mr Kemp’s folly has been underutilised during most of its long career as, off and on, a post office, general store, kauri gum store, temporary boxing rink and polling booth. In 1975 the Historic Places Trust bought and leased it to a storekeeper who ran a dusty museum as a sideline. Its institutional life has been eventful. In 1981 debris dammed the swollen river at the nearby bridge, flooded Kemp House and sent water through part of the store. Two summers earlier, the Trust had inserted historically inaccurate dormers and a structurally unsound chimney. The building almost succumbed to this combination of unwise tampering, traffic vibration and dampness caused by rising ground water levels. When the Trust closed it in 1992 for extensive conservation, parochial teeth gnashed and there were marches in the street – but the store is now safe to enter. It sports proper dormers now, and vibration caused by has been much reduced thanks to the removal of the bridge in 2008.

Related places

Next door is New Zealand’s oldest building, the Kerikeri Mission House, or Kemp House. Built in 1822 for the Reverend John Butler, it was occupied by the Kemp family from 1832 until 1974. The basin also contains Hongi Hika’s Kororipo Pā, St John’s Church, archaeological sites and historic trees.

Further information

This site is item number 13 on the History of New Zealand in 100 Places list.

On the ground

The NZHPT buildings are staffed and professionally interpreted. There are also signboards in the neighbouring sites.

Websites

Book

Judith Binney (ed.), Te Kerikeri 1770-1850: the meeting place, Bridget Williams Books, Wellington, 2007

Credit:

Text: Gavin McLean, 2013

Main image: mattdwen (Flickr)

Other images: Jock Phillips, Gavin McLean and mattdwen (Flickr)

Historic image:

Alexander Turnbull Library
Reference: E-296-q-035-1 (sketched by Richard Taylor)
Permission of the Alexander Turnbull Library, National Library of New Zealand, Te Puna Matauranga o Aotearoa, must be obtained before any reuse of their images.

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Date established:

1835

A history of New Zealand in 100 places

This web feature is an updated digital adaptation of Gavin McLean’s 2002 book, 100 Historic Places in New Zealand. Publisher Hodder Moa Beckett’s title slightly disguised the fact that it was a history of New Zealand told through 100 historic places. These are not the 100 best buildings – many aren’t buildings – or the greatest archaeological sites. McLean observes, ‘I chose some because they are beautiful, but most are either places where people created turning points in our history or they are ones that represent major historic themes. No focus groups tainted this entirely personal excursion through our cultural heritage landscapes. Despite the damage caused by the 2010–12 Canterbury earthquakes, I’ve kept my 2002 choices – change, even catastrophic, is as much part of history as continuity.’ See also a map view of these places.

The 100 Places

1Ōtuataua Stonefields

2Pouērua

3Palliser Bay

4Shag River Mouth

5Takiroa Rock Art Shelter

6Ōtātara Pā Historic Reserve

7Pāpāmoa

8Cook Landing Site Historic Reserve

9Rangihoua Pā and Oihi Mission Station

10Pukerangiora Pā Historic Reserve

18Albert Barracks Wall

19Kawana Flourmill

20Brancepeth

21Old Government House

22Old Coach Road

23Pencarrow Lighthouse

24Canterbury Provincial Council Chambers

32Ross Creek Reservoir

33Lyttelton Rail Tunnel

34BNZ Façade

35Te Pōrere

36Armed Constabulary Boat

37Arrowtown Chinese settlement

38Ōamaru bank buildings

39Timaru Landing Service Building

40Port of Ōamaru

41Alexandra Redoubt

42Lane & Brown Shipyard and Sawmill

43Evans Bay Patent Slip

44First Church of Otago

45Edwin Fox

46'The Camp' and 'The Cliffs'

47Quail Island

48Government Buildings, Wellington

49Oamaru Harbour Board offices

50Wakapuaka Cable Station

51Lyttelton Timeball Station

52Criterion Hotel

53Princes Street Merchants’ Houses

54University of Otago

55Denniston Incline

56Roslyn Woollen Mill

57Victoria Channel

58Pātea Port Works

59Te Aroha Springs Reserve

60Totara Estate

61Former Union Steam Ship Company Headquarters

62Ōamaru Courthouse

63New Zealand Clothing Company Building

64Rongopai

65Former St Andrew’s Church

66Kate Sheppard’s House

67Invercargill Water Tower

68Martha Hill Mine

69Pigeon Island Bird Pen

70Fort Jervois

71Albert Park Queen Victoria Statue

72Northern Steamship Company Building

73Cathedral of the Blessed Sacrament

74Ranfurly Veterans’ Home

75Dunedin Railway Station

76Ōamaru Showgrounds

77New Zealand Express Company Building

78Makatote Viaduct

79Perano Whaling Station

80Auckland Town Hall

81Auckland Ferry Building and Tees

82Home of Compassion Crèche

83Auckland University Old Arts Building

84Percy Burn Viaduct

85Civic Theatre, Auckland

86Tolaga Bay Wharf

87Auckland War Memorial Museum

88Frank Sargeson’s Bach

89National Tobacco Company Building

90Freemasons Centre

91Waitaki Dam

92Treaty House

93Shortland Street Studios

94The ‘Bridge to Nowhere’

95First State House

96Wellington Centennial Memorial Building

97Christchurch International Airport

98Auckland Harbour Bridge

99Warkworth Satellite Earth Station

100Pipitea Marae

NZ history:

100 New Zealand Places

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'The Camp' and 'The Cliffs'

‘The Camp’ and ‘The Cliffs’, Dunedin (1874 & 1876)

Dunedin’s pretentious piles

Dunedin claims two castles, although they are nothing of the sort. William James Mudie Larnach will be forever remembered for two things: taking his own life in Parliament in 1898 as he rebounded from the verge of bankruptcy to the edge of family disgrace, and for this building, ‘The Camp’, or Larnach Castle. It is a fitting monument for a man of whom the Dictionary of New Zealand Biography says, ‘the need to maintain at any cost a show of material success, and to hide any trace of weakness or self-doubt, was a ruling instinct which exacted a heavy toll on his personal happiness’.

The ‘castle’, a 43-room Scots Baronial house, symbolised the wealth and confidence of the Dunedin business community at its peak. R.A. Lawson, normally an architect of taste, supervised it for Larnach and work started on the isolated Otago Peninsula site in 1871. It is an impressive if ill-proportioned lump – ‘Scots Baronial meets Turkish brothel’ as a friend unkindly once put it – of Victorian and Scottish styles based on British plans. Nevertheless, Larnach spared no expense in its execution. Sculptor Louis Godfrey and other artisans wrought magic with the stonework, and the woodwork and plasterwork still excite the senses. Although Larnach moved into ‘The Camp’ in 1874, work on the interior continued for many years and the ballroom was not completed until 1887.

Larnach, born in New South Wales in 1833, was one of the ‘New Iniquity’ who flooded into the province in the 1860s. After mismanaging the Bank of Otago, Larnach plunged his fingers into many pies. He speculated, borrowed and lived life close to the edge. So did his son, who leaped into the bed of his father’s third wife while still living under Dad’s roof. After Larnach’s death the house passed through several hands and experienced many ups and downs, with sheep sheltering in the ruined ballroom at one stage. Since 1967 the Barker family has, with magnificent obsession, slowly and painfully restored the house, outbuildings and grounds as a major attraction.

Closer to town atop wealthy St Clair is ‘The Cliffs’, the city’s other parapeted pile. ‘Lord Concrete’ (Francis William Petre) designed this 21-room mansion in 1876 in what could charitably be called ‘Otago Italianate Concrete’ style for one of Dunedin’s most influential businessmen. Edward Bowes Cargill, the seventh son of Otago’s co-leader Captain William Cargill, arrived in the province in 1858, just three years before the gold rush, but he made up for that by helping John Jones float the Harbour Steam Company. Cargill was a veritable southern octopus. He was a director of the Union Company, Westport Coal, New Zealand Refrigerating, Mosgiel Woollens, National Insurance, Dunedin Water & Gas, Trustees Executors, the Otago & Southland Investment Company and a host of small fry, as well as serving on the boards of many public institutions. In a rush of nostalgia, Dunedin elected him mayor in 1898 to preside over the city’s 50th anniversary celebrations.

In Cargill’s day the colonial elite disported itself at The Cliffs. After E.B. died in 1901 outsiders bought the property. Its later history was as rocky as Larnach’s: cabaret, restaurant, private home, wartime watch post and from the 1970s an empty shell, with the removal of the roof and windows opening it to the elements. Botched by the builder (the stones that went into the concrete were too large), the ruins of ‘Cargill’s Castle’ still cling to the hill, defying the elements and developers alike. Historian Tom Brooking speculates that ‘Captain Cargill may well have found it appropriate that his son’s pursuit of wealth produced a ruined castle while the tall spire of the First Church continues to grace the Dunedin skyline’. Maybe. If E.B. had a fault, it was displaying vulgar ostentation – but one look at some of the hideous excrescences now sprouting up around the old ‘castle’ shows that this failing did not die with him.

Further information

These sites are item number 46 on the History of New Zealand in 100 Places list.

Websites

Book

Fleur Snedden, King of the Castle, David Bateman, Auckland, 1997

Credit:

Text: Gavin McLean, 2013

Main image: Poco a poco (Wikimedia)

Other contemporary images: Gavin McLean and Seanb (Wikimedia)

Historic images:

Alexander Turnbull Library
References: 1/2-002829-F, 1/4-003229-F (photographed by Thelma Kent), WA-10670-F (photographed by Whites Aviation), 35mm-00123-d-F and PICT-000108 (photographed by D J Sherriff)
Permission of the Alexander Turnbull Library, National Library of New Zealand, Te Puna Matauranga o Aotearoa, must be obtained before any reuse of their images.

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1874 & 1876

BNZ Façade

BNZ Façade, Auckland (1867)

Bastardised banking flagship

Do not bother crossing the road for this one - in fact, you can only fully appreciate the true awfulness of this travesty from the eastern side of Queen Street. It confirms American historian Mike Wallace’s warning that calling façadism preservation is like saying that you can preserve polar bears as rugs. The best that can be said of this pointless perversion is that it is not nearly as silly looking as the Queen’s Head Tavern, up past the Town Hall – that really is the heritage equivalent of tossing a severed horse’s head into your enemy’s bed.

We stand cringing opposite the unburied corpse of this bank for two reasons: the centrality of the Bank of New Zealand to our early business history and the importance of this site. The bank opened in leased premises in 1861, four years before the directors miffed local architects by commissioning Australian Leonard Terry to design this unusual palazzo (upper stories) cum-Greek Revival (lower) composition in Tasmanian sandstone. Construction began in 1866. The bank extended the building northwards by adding two bays in 1882, going to the extent of reopening the Tasmanian quarry that had supplied the original stone and preserving the symmetry by moving the doorway. Architectural historians still rate that severed façade highly.

Lawyer, financier, one-time politician and speculator Thomas Russell was the driving force behind the BNZ. He was as important to Auckland as the more ostentatiously philanthropic John Logan Campbell, whom the city now prefers to remember. The bank went bust during the 1890s but was bailed out by the government and run from Wellington while publicly owned. Russell, described tactfully by Auckland historian Russell Stone as ‘a man who never lacked enemies’, probably would have relished the property and sharemarket boom of the 1980s that produced tiresome towers such as the one behind Terry’s façade.

Further information

This site is item number 34 on the History of New Zealand in 100 Places list.

Websites

Article

Robin Griffin, ‘The Old Lady of Queen Street’, Historic Places in New Zealand, no. 17, 1987, pp. 10-11

Credit:

Text: Gavin McLean, 2013

Main image: Melanie Lovell-Smith

Other contemporary images: Gavin McLean and Ed Kruger (Wikimedia)

Historic image:

Alexander Turnbull Library
Reference: 1/2-046203-G
Photographer: Sydney Charles Smith
Permission of the Alexander Turnbull Library, National Library of New Zealand, Te Puna Matauranga o Aotearoa, must be obtained before any reuse of their images.

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Date established:

1867

Old St Paul's

Old St Paul’s Cathedral (1866)

Our one memorable contribution to world architecture?

Historian Michael King called wooden Gothic churches ‘our one memorable contribution to world architecture’. He may be right. Throughout the country they take their place alongside our other icons, the halls, war memorials and lodges, ‘Selwyn’ wooden Gothic churches and gems such as this one. Architect David Kernohan aptly describes Old St Paul’s, Frederick Thatcher’s wonderful dark timber church, as ‘magnificent, like the upturned hull of a galleon’.

In 1865 Sir George Grey laid the foundation stone. St Paul’s, as it was then known, replaced an earlier church that stood in what are now the grounds of Parliament. It was extended several times under the direction of several prominent architects, but that has merely added to the beauty of capital’s premier Anglican church.

St Paul’s was one of four key battles fought by the embryonic preservation movement during the early 1950s – the others were Christ Church Taita, Partington’s Windmill (Auckland) and Bethune & Hunter’s counting house (Wellington). These threats helped to forge the National (from 1963, New Zealand) Historic Places Trust. We lost the secular structures but kept the churches – no thanks to the church in the case of this building, which since 1966 has been in Crown ownership. The Historic Places Trust manages it and it used for weddings, funerals and concerts.

Further information

This site is item number 31 on the History of New Zealand in 100 Places list.

On the ground

The building is curated. Inside are displays and a wide range of memorabilia.

Websites

Book

Margaret Alington, Frederick Thatcher and St. Paul’s, New Zealand Historic Places Trust, Wellington, 1965

Credit:

Text: Gavin McLean, 2013

Contemporary images: Andy Palmer. 2012

Historic images:

Alexander Turnbull Library
References: 1/4-009967-F (photographer: F Spencer), 1/2-021154-F, 1/1-025547-G (photographer: William Williams) and 1/2-010900-F.
Permission of the Alexander Turnbull Library, National Library of New Zealand, Te Puna Matauranga o Aotearoa, must be obtained before any reuse of their images.

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Date established:

1866

Government Buildings, Wellington

Government Buildings (1876)

New Zealand centralises its government

These massive wooden offices, the world’s second largest wooden building, symbolise the beginning of effective centralised government in New Zealand. Colonial Architect William Clayton wanted to build in ‘permanent’ materials, but penny-pinching forced him to mimic stone by using sand mixed with paint on the mock stone cornices, Doric columns, window mouldings and quoins. An incredible 2053 cubic metres of timber went into the building, which emerged over 1875-76 on its own reclamation near the edge of Wellington Harbour. When completed it housed 600 civil servants; almost everyone needed to run the government from the capital. Politicians brushed frock coats with civil servants in the corridor, for well into the 20th century the Executive Council also met here. In wartime the governor-general also had an office here.

The building was enlarged twice but it could never keep up with public sector growth. One by one the departments moved out, leaving the Education Department to turn out the light. Government Buildings lay empty until 1994, when the Department of Conservation began restoration. It is highly authentic, although in keeping with the fakery of the original construction, the chimneys on the roof are earthquake-friendly fibreglass replicas. Victoria University’s law school now uses the building, but several rooms have been set up for public viewing. Don’t miss the magnificent kauri ‘hanging stairs’ or the replica rat in the vault.

Related places

Out front a bronze statue of Prime Minister Peter Fraser strides off to Parliament into the teeth of a northerly. Follow his lead and cross the road to the Parliamentary complex of buildings and statues. The House of Representatives offers regular free guided tours.

Further information

This site is item number 48 on the History of New Zealand in 100 Places list.

On the ground

There are interpretation signs in the grounds and several rooms feature displays of the building’s history.

Web

Credit:

Text: Gavin McLean, 2013

Contemporary images: Andy Palmer, 2013

Historic image:

Alexander Turnbull Library
Reference: PAColl-1574-14
Photographer: James Bragge
Permission of the Alexander Turnbull Library, National Library of New Zealand, Te Puna Matauranga o Aotearoa, must be obtained before any reuse of their images.

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Date established:

1876

Christchurch airport

The domestic terminal for Christchurch airport was designed by modernist architect Paul Pascoe. It opened in 1960, and has since been extended. In 1998 a new international terminal was opened.

Read biography of Paul Pascoe

Credit:

Te Ara - The Encyclopedia of New Zealand
Photograph by Jock Phillips

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christchurch

paul pascoe

Paul Pascoe

Paul Pascoe is considered a pioneer of modernist architecture due to the large scale of buildings he designed in the style for his home town of Christchurch and further afield.

Paul commenced architectural training in 1927 and was articled to the successful Christchurch architect Cecil Wood from 1928 to 1933. By the early 1930s Pascoe’s designs showed the influence of the modernist movement. He did not, however, gain first-hand experience of the style until he worked in prominent architectural firms in England, such as the Tecton group, between 1934 and 1937.

In the mid-1940s Pascoe’s own architectural firm in Christchurch possessed a preference for translating and adapting modern international ideas to suit New Zealand conditions, thereby earning it a reputation as one of the foremost modern architectural firms in the country. Houses were carefully planned, modest, and portrayed qualities in tune with the local environment, New Zealand’s architectural history and local building materials. Many of their designs mimicked the simplicity of early colonial homes.

In 1955 Pascoe chose to practise alone. Soon after, he designed new terminal buildings at Christchurch International Airport. The strikingly modernist building was well received by the public and by architects: 30,000 people visited it within a month of opening, and in 1960 the New Zealand Institute of Architects awarded Pascoe their gold medal for this work. In 1961 Pascoe was elected a fellow of the New Zealand Institute of Architects and the following year a fellow of the Royal Institute of British Architects.

By Ana Robertson; adapted by Matthew Tonks

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